Liguria is a narrow, crescent-shaped region in northwest Italy, hugging the Mediterranean between the Alps, the Apennines, and the sea. Known as the Italian Riviera, it is famous for the five cliffside villages of the Cinque Terre, the glamorous harbour of Portofino, and the maritime city of Genoa. Liguria is also the birthplace of pesto, focaccia, and a culinary tradition built around the sea and the steep, terraced coast.
Liguria's cuisine is defined by the sea and the steep terraced hills behind it. Pesto alla genovese—basil, Ligurian olive oil, pine nuts, garlic and aged cheese pounded in a marble mortar—dresses trofie and trenette across Genoa. Focaccia, eaten at any hour, and focaccia di Recco col formaggio are regional icons, alongside farinata (chickpea flatbread), pansoti with walnut sauce, cima alla genovese and salt-cured anchovies. Local wines include the rare sweet Sciacchetrà of Cinque Terre plus crisp white Pigato and Vermentino, finished with Genoa's spiced pandolce.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Liguria.
Trofie al Pesto
Short twisted pasta dressed in pesto alla genovese, classically with green beans and potato
Where to try: Genoa trattorias / Il Genovese
Price: €9-14
Focaccia di Recco col Formaggio
Thin unleavened focaccia filled with molten crescenza cheese, a speciality of Recco
Where to try: Recco bakeries / Camogli waterfront
Price: €4-8
Farinata
Chickpea-flour flatbread baked in a copper pan in a wood oven
Where to try: Sa Pesta / Genoa friggitorie
Price: €3-6
Pansoti con Salsa di Noci
Herb-stuffed pasta parcels in a creamy walnut sauce
Where to try: Traditional Genoa and Riviera trattorias
Price: €10-15
Acciughe (Anchovies)
Salt-cured / fried Ligurian anchovies, a coastal staple
Where to try: Genoa friggitorie / Monterosso al Mare
Price: €5-10
Cima alla Genovese
Cold stuffed veal breast filled with egg, vegetables and herbs, sliced thin
Where to try: Genoa osterie / Antica Osteria di Vico Palla
Price: €10-16
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Trattoria Rosmarino
A stylish trattoria in the heart of Genoa's old town near Palazzo Ducale, set in an industrial-chic room with green banquettes. The kitchen reworks Genoese classics such as trofie al pesto, pansoti with walnut sauce, and stuffed vegetables using locally sourced ingredients. It is a reliable, atmospheric choice for a sit-down introduction to Ligurian cooking in the centro storico.
Known for: Ligurian - modern Genoese; known for trofie al pesto
Salita del Fondaco, 30, 16123 Genova GE, Italy
Il Marin
A refined seafood restaurant on the top floor of the Eataly building in the Porto Antico, with sweeping views over Genoa's old harbour. The kitchen produces creative, technically precise fish dishes built around the day's catch and regional produce, paired with a deep list of Ligurian whites. It is one of the most ambitious tables in the city, ideal for a special-occasion dinner with a sea view.
Known for: Contemporary Ligurian seafood; known for raw seafood and crudo selection
Calata Cattaneo, 15, Edificio Millo, 16128 Genova GE, Italy
Sa Pesta
A historic Genoese institution in the centro storico, in business for over a century and famous for its farinata baked in a vast wood-fired oven at the entrance. The short menu also features torta pasqualina, vegetable tortes, stuffed vegetables, and cima alla genovese served at simple shared tables. It is one of the best places in the city to taste old-recipe Genoese cucina povera at very fair prices.
Known for: Genoese - farinata and torte specialist; known for farinata (chickpea flatbread)
Via dei Giustiniani, 16r, 16123 Genova GE, Italy
Antica Osteria di Vico Palla
A characterful old tavern tucked into a narrow alley behind the Porto Antico in the Sottoripa district of Genoa. The kitchen serves generously portioned, well-seasoned Ligurian classics, with the mixed fritto misto of seafood a particular favourite among locals. Wood-beamed and convivial, it is a dependable spot for traditional Genoese cooking away from the tourist traps.
Known for: Genoese / Ligurian; known for fritto misto di mare
Vico Palla, 15r, 16128 Genova GE, Italy
Trattoria Ugo
A beloved family-run trattoria in central Genoa renowned among locals for one of the city's finest plates of trenette al pesto, served in the traditional way with potatoes and green beans. The menu sticks to honest Genoese home cooking with daily specials and homemade pasta. Small and popular, it rewards those who book ahead.
Known for: Genoese family cooking; known for trenette al pesto with potatoes and green beans
Via dei Giustiniani, 86r, 16123 Genova GE, Italy
Trattoria Osvaldo, Boccadasse
A rustic seafood trattoria in the picturesque former fishing village of Boccadasse on Genoa's eastern shore. The kitchen specialises in the day's catch, fritto misto, and Genoese pasta dishes served in a cosy room a few steps from the pebble beach. The setting among pastel houses and fishing boats makes it a memorable lunch or sunset dinner stop.
Known for: Ligurian seafood; known for fritto misto di mare
Via Aurora, 2, 16146 Genova GE, Italy
Manuelina Focacceria
The Recco institution that made focaccia di Recco col formaggio famous, in business since 1885 when Manuelina first served the cheese-filled flatbread in her tavern. The focacceria turns out the paper-thin, stracchino-filled focaccia hot from the oven all day, alongside other Ligurian specialties. It is the essential pilgrimage for anyone wanting to taste the genuine PGI-protected version at its source.
Known for: Recco focaccia col formaggio specialist; known for focaccia di recco col formaggio
Via Roma, 296, 16036 Recco GE, Italy
Ristorante Puny
The most famous restaurant on Portofino's tiny piazzetta, a long-time favourite of celebrities and well-heeled regulars overlooking the harbour. The menu focuses on Ligurian seafood alongside signature dishes such as pasta al pesto and pappardelle al Portofino with tomato and pesto. Tables on the square are coveted, so booking well ahead is essential in season.
Known for: Ligurian seafood; known for pappardelle al portofino (tomato and pesto)
Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta, 4-5, 16034 Portofino GE, Italy
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Seafood
Il Marin
Trattoria Osvaldo, Boccadasse
Ristorante Puny
Ristorante Da o Batti
Da O Batti, Santa Margherita Ligure
Ostaia da o Sigu, Camogli
La Rotonda, Camogli
Locanda Lorena, Isola Palmaria
Trattoria da Iseo, Portovenere
Ristorante Belforte, Vernazza
Ristorante Miky, Monterosso al Mare
Trattoria dal Billy, Manarola
Trattoria Gianni Franzi, Vernazza
Osteria del Marinaio, Sanremo
Casamare, Portovenere
La Pignese, Sanremo
Ligurian
Genoese
Cinque Terre
Creative Ligurian
Genoese Family Cooking
Genoese Focaccia And Bakery
Genoese Street Food
Ligurian Self
Recco Focaccia Col Formaggio Specialist
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Focaccia Genovese
Dimpled olive-oil flatbread eaten from breakfast onward across Liguria
Find it at: Genoa bakeries / Riviera towns
Farinata
Crisp chickpea flatbread served hot by the slice
Find it at: Genoa friggitorie / Sa Pesta
Frittura di Pesce
Paper cones of fried anchovies, squid and small seafood from friggitorie
Find it at: Genoa old town / coastal harbours
Panissa
Fried chickpea-paste batons, a savoury Genoese snack
Find it at: Genoa friggitorie and bars
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Mercato Orientale
Genoa's grand covered market for produce, cheese, fish and Ligurian specialities
Hours: Mon-Sat 7:30AM-7PM
Mercato del Carmine
Small neighbourhood market in Genoa's old town with local produce and delis
Hours: Mon-Sat 8AM-1PM
Mercato di Santa Margherita Ligure
Riviera fish and produce market a short hop from Portofino
Hours: Mon-Sat 8AM-1PM
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Lunch runs roughly 12:30-2:30 PM; dinner starts around 8 PM along the coast
Pesto is freshest where it is pounded to order—ask if it is made in the mortar (al mortaio)
Order farinata and focaccia early in the day when batches come straight from the oven
Tipping around 10% is appreciated though service is often already included (coperto)
- Vegetarian
- Strong options—pesto pasta, farinata, focaccia and vegetable-stuffed pastas are widely available
- Halal
- Limited; Genoa has some halal restaurants but Riviera towns have few
- Gluten free
- Increasingly available in Genoa; ask for 'senza glutine'
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | €6-15 per meal | Focaccia, farinata and friggitoria seafood cones eaten on the go |
| Mid-range | €25-45 per meal | Traditional trattorias serving pesto pasta and Ligurian seafood |
| Upscale | €70+ per meal | Portofino and Cinque Terre fine dining with sea views and local wine |