Trattoria da Iseo, Portovenere

Trattoria da Iseo is a long-running family trattoria on Piazza Bastreri, the little square at the entrance to Portovenere's old village, beloved for fresh seafood and Gulf of Poets specialties. Founded by Iseo and now run by the founder's daughter, it carries the warmth of a generational family kitchen, and its position just inside the village gate, a few steps from the harbour, puts diners in the heart of one of Liguria's prettiest fishing towns. The menu centres on the sea: muscoli ripieni, the local stuffed mussels for which the Gulf of Poets is known, spaghetti ai frutti di mare, fritto misto and the day's catch. The cooking is honest and traditional, the portions generous, and the welcome friendly and personal. Prices are mid-range and fair for such a scenic spot, with pasta courses around EUR 12-18 and fish mains roughly EUR 16-26; whole fish is priced by weight, so a full meal generally falls in the EUR 35-50 per person range before wine. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial, with tables both inside and out on the square, no dress code, and a lively buzz on summer evenings. The wine list favours Ligurian whites such as Vermentino and the Cinque Terre and Gulf of Poets labels that suit the mussels and seafood pasta. Being a popular, characterful spot in a much-visited village, it rewards booking ahead, especially for dinner and at weekends through the season; it typically closes one day a week. Portovenere is reached by road or by ferry from La Spezia and the Cinque Terre, and da Iseo makes a satisfying meal after exploring the Church of San Pietro on its rocky point and the village's tall harbourfront houses. For dependable, traditional Gulf of Poets seafood in a friendly family setting, Trattoria da Iseo is a reliable choice.