Antica Sciamadda, Genoa

Antica Sciamadda is a traditional Genoese sciamadda, the old-style fried-food and farinata shop whose dialect name refers to the flames of the wood-fired oven, on Via San Giorgio in the centro storico near the Porto Antico. These shops are a vanishing Genoese institution, and Antica Sciamadda is one of the most authentic survivors, its counter turning out farinata, panissa (fried chickpea polenta), vegetable tortes, stuffed vegetables and frisceu (savoury fritters) baked or fried throughout the day. The food is classic Ligurian street fare, eaten standing or on the go, and the place is geared to grazing rather than sit-down dining, with a few stools or a small counter at most. It is one of the best spots in Genoa to taste cheap, genuine cucina povera the way Genoese have eaten it for generations, and the rotating display of golden fritters and tortes is the draw. Prices are very low: farinata and tortes are sold by the slice for a euro or two, and a generous snack or light lunch is easily had for around EUR 5-12 per person. The atmosphere is no-frills and authentic, a working old-town shop rather than a restaurant, and there is no dress code or table service to speak of. There is no wine programme, though a glass of simple white may be available to wash down the farinata. It is typically open daytime hours Monday to Saturday and closed on Sundays, so timing matters; the food is best eaten hot, straight from the oven or fryer, so calling in when a fresh batch emerges is ideal. Set in the heart of the centro storico amid the medieval caruggi, it pairs naturally with a wander through old Genoa. For an authentic, inexpensive taste of Genoese street food, Antica Sciamadda is a classic stop.