Locanda Lorena, Isola Palmaria

Locanda Lorena is a celebrated seafood restaurant on the island of Palmaria, the green hump of land facing Portovenere across a narrow strait at the western edge of the Gulf of Poets near La Spezia. Reaching it is part of the appeal: a short boat shuttle ferries diners across the channel from Portovenere to the island, depositing them at a tranquil waterside setting away from the village crowds. The kitchen focuses on impeccably fresh fish and Gulf of Poets shellfish, opening with mixed seafood antipasti, following with spaghetti alle vongole and other seafood pasta, and grilling the day's local catch to order. The cooking is classic and produce-driven, the sort of straightforward seafood cookery that suits the island calm and the sea views from the tables. This is an upper-mid to top-end experience for the area, with antipasti and pasta courses around EUR 18-28 and fish mains from roughly EUR 26-40; whole fish is priced by weight, so a full meal commonly runs EUR 55-80 per person before wine. The atmosphere is relaxed and scenic rather than formal, smart-casual in keeping with a waterside island lunch or dinner, and the wine list leans on Ligurian whites such as Vermentino and the Gulf of Poets' own labels. Because seating is limited and the boat logistics matter, reservations are essential, and it is worth asking the restaurant about the shuttle when booking; the locanda keeps seasonal hours and typically closes in winter, so off-season visits require checking ahead. Palmaria sits within the protected area around Portovenere and the Cinque Terre, and a meal here combines easily with exploring the village or a swim from the island's shores. For a memorable, slightly adventurous seafood meal reached by boat, Locanda Lorena is one of the standout tables in the La Spezia area.