Il Pirun, Riomaggiore

Il Pirun is a characterful little restaurant and wine bar on Via Colombo, the steep main street of Riomaggiore, the easternmost of the Cinque Terre's five villages. It takes its name from the pirun, the traditional Ligurian glass wine vessel with a long spout from which wine is poured in an arc, and the playful local lore around drinking from it sets the tone for a snug, atmospheric spot. The menu features local seafood, fried and marinated anchovies (acciughe), trofie al pesto, and other Ligurian dishes, paired with Cinque Terre wines including the area's crisp DOC whites and the rare sweet Sciacchetra. The cooking is honest and traditional rather than refined, and the appeal lies in the cosy room, the wine-bar character and the friendly, good-value welcome in a village where waterfront tables can be pricey. The atmosphere is informal and snug, with closely set tables and a convivial buzz, and there is no dress code. Prices are mid-range and reasonable for the Cinque Terre, with pasta and antipasti courses around EUR 10-16 and seafood mains roughly EUR 14-22, so a full meal generally falls in the EUR 30-42 per person bracket before wine. The wine list, fittingly for a place named after a wine vessel, is a strength, leaning on local Cinque Terre labels. Riomaggiore is reached on the Cinque Terre train line or via the coastal paths, and Il Pirun sits on the climb up the main street from the harbour. Being small and popular, it rewards booking ahead in high season, and it observes seasonal closures, so checking off-season is wise. For a welcoming, wine-focused and good-value meal of Ligurian seafood and anchovies in Riomaggiore, Il Pirun is a charming choice.