Mercado dos Lavradores

The Mercado dos Lavradores, or Farmers' Market, on Rua Brigadeiro Oudinot in Funchal's old town, is one of the most photogenic indoor locations on Madeira. The art deco building, decorated with azulejo tile panels at the entrance, centres on an open courtyard surrounded by galleries. The frame inside is a close, colourful composition: flower sellers in traditional dress beside stacks of orchids and proteas, pyramids of tropical fruit such as passion fruit, custard apple and bananas, and, in the separate fish hall, long black scabbardfish and tuna laid out on marble slabs. Light is mixed, with soft daylight from the courtyard and overhead openings combined with artificial lamps, so a fast lens of f/1.8 to f/2.8 and a 35mm or 50mm prime are practical. The best time to visit is Friday morning between 07:00 and 10:00, when the market is busiest with sellers and the flower stalls are at their fullest; the fish hall is most active early. Weekday mornings are quieter, while late morning to midday brings tour groups and tighter aisles. Tripods are impractical in the narrow aisles and generally unwelcome, and flash should be avoided. Visitors are expected to ask permission before photographing vendors, and buying a small item such as fruit is a courteous way to build rapport; some sellers may expect a tip for posed portraits. Entry to the market is free. Drones are not applicable indoors and are restricted over the old town. Restrooms are available within the market, and cafes are close by on the surrounding streets. The wet floors in the fish hall call for non-slip shoes.