Santana and Ribeiro Frio

Santana and Ribeiro Frio form a day trip into the green north of Madeira, Portugal, 20 to 45 km from Funchal. Santana is best known for its casas de colmo, small A-frame houses with steep thatched roofs painted in red, white and blue, which are a symbol of the island. A cluster of them stands at Casas de Colmo on Rua do Sacristão, and some are open as small shops or exhibits. The trip takes about one hour by car via the expressway and the ER101. The Horários do Funchal intercity bus takes about 1 hour 30 minutes for an intermunicipal fare of €2.60 cash. Guided full-day jeep or minibus tours typically start from about €55 per person and often combine Santana with other stops, which saves driving on mountain roads. Ribeiro Frio lies on the way, in a cool forest valley at roughly 860 metres. It has a trout farm, a small restaurant and café, and the start of the Balcões trail, a short and fairly easy levada walk of around 30 to 40 minutes each way leading to a viewpoint over the central mountains. The area belongs to the Laurisilva forest, a UNESCO World Heritage laurel forest, and the levada paths pass through dense moss-covered trees. A suggested arc begins with an early departure from Funchal, a stop at Ribeiro Frio for the Balcões walk in the morning, and a trout lunch at the village. The afternoon is then spent in Santana, visiting the thatched houses and walking the town centre before returning in the late afternoon. Starting early is important, because clouds often settle over the north in the afternoon and hide the views. Rain and mist are common even in summer, so a light waterproof jacket is advisable. The north coast also has local bakeries selling bolo de mel and queijadas, which suit a coffee stop in Santana.