Curral das Freiras and Eira do Serrado

Curral das Freiras, the Nuns' Valley, is a village set in a deep volcanic crater about 10 km north-west of Funchal on Madeira, Portugal. The name recalls nuns of the Santa Clara convent who are said to have fled here in the 16th century to escape pirates. The village is hemmed in by steep mountain walls and is reached by a winding road with long tunnels. The ER107 passes the Miradouro da Eira do Serrado, a viewpoint at about 1,095 metres from which the whole crater, the terraced slopes and the red roofs of the village are visible far below. Horários do Funchal buses run toward Curral das Freiras in about 35 minutes for an intermunicipal fare of €2.60 cash, and a taxi takes about 25 minutes. A hire car allows a stop at the viewpoint on the way. Guided half-day tours combine the viewpoint and the village. At Eira do Serrado, a short path leads along a ridge to the lookout, and a small café and handicraft stalls operate beside the car park. In the village, the chestnut is the local speciality, and cafés and restaurants serve chestnut soup, chestnut cake, chestnut liqueur and bread. The chestnut festival at the end of October is the busiest time of year. A suggested one-day arc starts with a morning visit to Eira do Serrado, when the crater is usually clearest, then a descent to the village for a walk along the main street and the church. Lunch fits a village restaurant, followed by an afternoon coffee and a chestnut sweet before the return bus. Cloud often fills the valley in the afternoon, which makes early arrival worthwhile. The drive involves narrow bends and tunnels, so those uneasy on mountain roads may prefer the bus or a guided tour. Walking trails descend from Eira do Serrado to the village for fit hikers, but the climb back is steep. The village is small and unhurried, and most visitors spend two to three hours there.