Zona Velha and Rua de Santa Maria

Zona Velha, the Old Town of Funchal on the island of Madeira, Portugal, is the oldest quarter of the city, and Rua de Santa Maria is its oldest street. The street runs through the quarter near the waterfront, lined with narrow houses, restaurants, bars, and small shops. Funchal was settled here after the Portuguese arrived in the early 15th century, and the quarter grew around the harbour as a fishing and trading district. Today its main attraction is the Arte de Portas Abertas project, in which the doors of houses and shops have been painted by artists since 2010, turning the street into an open-air gallery. The painted doors vary from bold abstract designs to local scenes, and visitors can walk slowly along the street to look at them in turn. The street runs west from the Forte de São Tiago toward the market area, so it can form part of a longer walk that includes the fortress, Mercado dos Lavradores, and the Madeira Story Centre. Restaurants along the street serve Madeiran dishes such as espada with banana, grilled limpets, and bolo do caco bread with garlic butter, and also serve poncha, the island's sugar-cane spirit drink. Most restaurants serve lunch from about 12PM to 3PM and dinner from 6:30PM to 11PM, and in the evening tables are set out in the street, giving it a lively atmosphere. Entry is free because the streets are open at all times. A visit takes two to three hours with a meal. Late afternoon into evening is the best time, when the light is soft and restaurants set out their tables, although it is also when the street is busiest. Mornings are quiet and best for photographing the doors without crowds. Visitors should be aware that some restaurant touts stand in the street to invite passers-by, and that menu prices should be checked before sitting down. The area is a two-minute walk from the lower cable car station and about ten minutes from Avenida Arriaga. The paving is cobbled and uneven in places, so flat shoes are advisable.