Chez Fonfon

Chez Fonfon is a bouillabaisse house in the Vallon des Auffes, the tiny fishing inlet below the Corniche in Marseille's 7th arrondissement, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of France. The address, 140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes, places the dining room and terrace directly beside the cove, where small fishing boats and painted cabanons sit under a high road bridge. The kitchen specialises in Provençal seafood, and the restaurant is best known for the classic Marseille fish soup served in the traditional manner: the saffron-scented broth arrives first, followed by the carved rockfish, ordered for a minimum of two diners. Bourride, the creamy fish stew thickened with aïoli, is the other signature dish and a useful alternative for those who want a lighter, garlicky preparation. Third-party guides put bouillabaisse at roughly EUR 60-80 (about $69-92) per person, although the restaurant website does not publish a figure, so confirming the price when booking is sensible. The atmosphere is that of a long-running family seafood address rather than a formal dining room: the terrace over the water is the main draw, with tables close to the quay and a view of the boats. Dress is casual and smart-casual, and noise levels are moderate, rising on busy summer weekends when the cove fills with locals and visitors. Service follows the rhythm of French restaurants, with lunch from 12:00 to 14:00 and dinner from 19:00 to 22:00 daily according to the restaurant website, though seasonal changes are possible. Reservations are recommended, particularly for bouillabaisse, which depends on the day's catch and is usually prepared to order. Booking can be made online at chez-fonfon.com or by phone on +33 4 91 52 14 38. For terrace seats on a clear evening, booking several days ahead in summer is prudent, and requesting the terrace at the time of booking improves the chance of a table over the water. The restaurant is a short drive or bus ride from the Vieux-Port along the Corniche Kennedy, and the lane to the cove is steep and uneven, which affects access for those with limited mobility. Wine lists lean toward Provence, with local rosé and white wines from Cassis and Bandol suiting the fish.