Laochang Chunbing (老昌春饼, Gogol Street)

Laochang Chunbing (Old Chang Spring Pancakes) is at 11 Gogol Street in Harbin's Nangang District, not far from the railway station, in Heilongjiang province. It specialises in chunbing, the thin spring pancakes that Northeast Chinese diners fill at the table with a platter of meats and vegetables, a dish traditionally associated with the start of spring but eaten year-round in Harbin. Gogol Street is one of the city's Russian-named streets, and the restaurant is convenient for visitors arriving or leaving by train.

The emblematic order is the chun bing set with smoked meat. It arrives as a stack of warm pancakes with a platter of sliced smoked and braised meats, shredded vegetables and sauces, and diners roll their own wraps. Stir-fried potato shreds and sauced pork are the usual companions. The do-it-yourself format makes the meal interactive, and it suits groups or families sharing a large platter.

The dining room is a casual, no-frills Dongbei restaurant with a relaxed, communal feel. Noise is moderate, service is fast, and no dress code applies. Local diners make up much of the trade. Beverages are standard: tea, soft drinks and beer.

Prices are moderate at roughly 40 to 80 yuan (about 6 to 12 US dollars) per person. Reservations are not normally needed, and diners can walk in, though telephoning 0451-82810158 is useful for groups. Opening hours are 10:30 to 21:00 daily. Mealtimes at 12:00 and 18:00 are the busiest, and public holidays and winter festival weeks bring longer waits. Visitors with luggage on the way to the station will find it a quick and filling stop.