Laowei Shaokao (老味烧烤, flagship)

Laowei Shaokao (Old Flavour Barbecue), the flagship, is at 34 Anda Street, opposite Victoria Maternity Hospital, in Harbin's Daoli District, Heilongjiang province. It is a skewer house serving lamb and beef shaokao, the grilled-skewer street food that is a staple of evening dining across northern China. The flagship is an established local place, popular for cheap grilled beef rib, and draws mostly Harbin residents rather than tourists.

Lamb skewers are the emblematic order, seasoned with cumin and chilli in the northern style. Beef skewers, grilled beef rib strips and chicken feet are the other regular choices, and diners typically order in quantities of ten or more skewers per person. Beer is the standard accompaniment. Portions are priced per skewer, so the bill scales with appetite and generally stays low.

The atmosphere is casual, smoky and noisy, in the manner of a Chinese barbecue restaurant. Tables are simple and service is fast, and the mood is convivial, with groups of friends eating late. There is no dress code, and the place is best in the evening. It suits groups and social meals rather than quiet dining.

No reservation is taken, and diners walk in. Queues are common after 18:30, so arriving early or accepting a wait is advised. The restaurant is open in the evenings to late night, and visitors should confirm current hours on Dianping. Prices are in the budget bracket. Winter evenings are a popular time, since the heat of the grill and the hot skewers suit the cold, but the restaurant is busy year-round, especially on weekends and public holidays.