Labrang Monastery, Xiahe

Labrang Monastery sits in Xiahe town in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, about 270 km southwest of Lanzhou, Gansu, China. There is no rail link, so the standard route is a direct intercity bus from Lanzhou Southern Bus Station to Xiahe, taking roughly three and a half to four and a half hours each way at about CNY 70-90, with several departures daily. A chartered car with driver is the faster alternative, and limited flights serve Gannan Xiahe Airport. Founded in 1709, Labrang is one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism and still houses hundreds of monks. The town lies at about 2,900 m, so the air is thin and mornings are cool even in summer. The principal activity is the 3-km kora, a clockwise pilgrim circuit around the monastery lined with hundreds of prayer wheels, which takes about an hour at a gentle pace. Visitors can also join a guided tour of the main buildings, including gilded prayer halls, assembly halls and chapels, for a separate fee on top of the entry ticket of about CNY 40. Tours run on a fixed schedule in the morning and afternoon, and photography inside the halls is restricted. Because the bus ride consumes seven to nine hours of the day, a same-day return from Lanzhou leaves little time on site, and an overnight stay is better. A same-day plan means catching the earliest morning bus, walking the kora on arrival, joining the early-afternoon guided tour, and taking the last return bus, which should be confirmed on arrival. May to October is the best season, with mild weather and open roads, while the Monlam prayer festival, usually in the first lunar month, is the busiest and coldest period. Food in Xiahe includes Tibetan staples such as yak meat, tsampa, butter tea and momos, served in small restaurants along the main street near the monastery, and Hui noodle shops offer alternatives. Modest dress, quiet behaviour and walking clockwise are expected of visitors to the sacred sites.