Diyarbakır is the largest city in southeast Turkey, on the Tigris River, famous for its UNESCO-listed black basalt city walls and Hevsel Gardens, Ulu Cami, the caravanserai of Hasan Paşa Han and a rich Kurdish and Anatolian food culture. The old walled city of Sur is the heart of any visit.
Best souvenirs
Authentic items worth bringing home.
Hand-hammered copperware
Cezve (coffee pots), trays and small bowls made by Sur's coppersmiths. Weight and any tin lining matter if the piece is meant for cooking.
Price: 300-4,000 TRY (~$6.2-82) depending on size and hammering detail
Where: Hasan Paşa Hanı and the copper workshops along Gazi Caddesi in Sur
Kilims and woven rugs
Flat-woven kilims and cicim textiles from the Southeast, in wool and cotton. Hand-woven and machine-made pieces are both sold, so the seller should be asked which is which.
Price: 1,500-25,000 TRY (~$31-515) depending on size and age
Where: Sur textile shops near the Ulu Cami
Örgü peyniri (braided cheese)
Salted braided cheese sold by weight, often vacuum packed for travel.
Price: 300-800 TRY (~$6.2-16) per kg
Where: Peynirciler Çarşısı, Abidin Paşa Sokak, Sur
Pekmez and dried fruit
Grape molasses, dried mulberries, apricots and nuts from the Southeast.
Price: 100-500 TRY (~$2.1-10) per jar or bag
Where: Sur spice and dried-fruit shops, and supermarkets
Spices and isot pepper blends
Southeastern red pepper flakes and kebab spice blends, sold loose or in sealed bags.
Price: 60-300 TRY (~$1.2-6.2) per bag
Where: Spice shops along Gazi Caddesi
Nazar beads and small craft gifts
Blue glass evil-eye beads and small hand-made items, useful as light gifts.
Price: 30-250 TRY (~$0.6-5.2)
Where: Souvenir shops in Hasan Paşa Hanı
Traditional markets
Where locals shop and travellers find treasures.
Hasan Paşa Hanı
A 16th-century caravanserai on Gazi Caddesi, restored and now filled with craft shops, cafés and tea houses opposite the Great Mosque.
Where: Sur, Dabanoğlu - opposite the Ulu Cami
Hours: Shops typically Mon-Sat from about 09:00 to 19:00-20:00; tea houses stay open later (hours vary by shop)
Deliller Hanı (Büyük Kervansaray)
The largest caravanserai in Diyarbakır, now operating as Hotel Büyük Kervansaray, with a courtyard restaurant and the southern bazaar lanes beside it.
Where: Sur, Abdaldede - near Mardin Gate
Hours: Hotel and courtyard open daily; any craft or souvenir shops follow shop hours of about 09:00-19:00
Peynirciler Çarşısı (Cheese Sellers' Market)
A small lane of dairy shops selling braided örgü cheese, tulum, butter and honey close to Deliller Hanı.
Where: Sur, Abdaldede - Abidin Paşa Sokak
Hours: Mon-Sat from about 08:00 to 19:00; most shops close on Sundays
Selahaddin Eyyubi Çarşısı
A traditional trading street of Sur used for everyday shopping, clothing, household goods and local snacks.
Where: Sur, near the Ulu Cami and Hz. Süleyman area
Hours: Mon-Sat, roughly 09:00-19:00 (hours vary by shop)
Shopping districts
Neighbourhoods known for retail.
Sur bazaars along Gazi Caddesi
The historic spine of the walled city, lined with hans, tea houses, copper and textile shops, cheese lanes and spice sellers.
Best for: Copperware, kilims, cheese, spices and souvenirs
Hasan Paşa Hanı and Ulu Cami quarter
The most visitor-friendly corner of Sur, with the restored han, souvenir shops and café courtyards beside the Great Mosque.
Best for: Souvenirs and tea in a historic setting
Şanlıurfa Bulvarı and Elazığ Bulvarı mall belt
Modern retail in Bağlar and Yenişehir around Ceylan Karavil Park and Forum Diyarbakır.
Best for: Clothing chains, electronics and air-conditioned shopping
Malls & modern shopping
Air-conditioned, international brands, and food courts.
Forum Diyarbakır
A multi-storey mall on Elazığ Bulvarı with international and Turkish fashion brands, a cinema, restaurants and a large car park.
Hours: Daily 10:00-22:00
Ceylan Karavil Park
The city's largest mall by lettable area, on Şanlıurfa Bulvarı in Bağlar, with 300+ shops, a cinema and an entertainment centre.
Hours: Daily 10:00-22:00
Ninova Park
A mid-sized mall on the Şanlıurfa road in Kayapınar with a cinema and about 100 stores.
Hours: Daily, typically 10:00-22:00; hours should be confirmed locally
Bargaining tips
Negotiate like a local.
Bargaining (pazarlık) is expected for copperware, kilims and other craft items in Sur, but not in cheese shops, supermarkets, malls or tea houses.
Start at roughly 60-70% of the first asking price and settle near the middle; stay friendly and walk away politely if the price does not fall.
Accepting a glass of tea is hospitality, not an obligation to buy.
Compare two or three shops for the same item before committing, since quality and asking prices differ widely.
Hand-hammered copper shows irregular hammer marks, while machine-stamped pieces look uniform.
Cash in small notes makes bargaining easier; large bills reduce a seller's willingness to discount.
Customs & restrictions
What you can and can't take home.
Items:
- Custom
- Tea before business
- Description
- Shopkeepers in Sur often offer çay while a customer browses; it is a courtesy and usually free.
- Tip
- Accept with a nod and a thank you (teşekkür ederim); leaving without buying is acceptable.
- Custom
- Friday and prayer times
- Description
- Many Sur shops shut briefly around Friday midday prayers, and some stay closed on Sundays.
- Tip
- Plan bazaar visits for Monday to Saturday, ideally in the morning.
- Custom
- Photography in shops
- Description
- Craftsmen are often happy to be photographed, but permission is expected, especially for portraits.
- Tip
- Ask first with a gesture and a smile; do not photograph women without permission.
- Custom
- Modest dress
- Description
- The bazaars are in a conservative area beside the Ulu Cami.
- Tip
- Covered shoulders and knees are the safe choice when shopping in Sur.
- Custom
- Fixed prices in food shops
- Description
- Cheese, dried fruit and spices are sold at marked per-kilogram prices.
- Tip
- Taste first, then confirm the weight and total before paying.