L'Escala is famous for its salt-cured anchovies (anxoves), one of Catalonia's most prized food products. Visit traditional anchovy factories, learn the salting and maturation process, and taste the anchovies with local bread and wine.
The Costa Brava Anchovy and Seafood Tour centres on L'Escala, a small fishing town on the Gulf of Roses in the Alt Empordà region of Catalonia, approximately two hours north of Barcelona. L'Escala has produced salt-cured anchovies (anxoves de l'Escala) since the 17th century using techniques brought by Sicilian fishermen who settled on the Costa Brava, and the town's anchovy factories are among the most visited food production sites in Catalonia. The anxova de l'Escala carries European Union Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, recognising the town's unique curing tradition.
Tours of the anchovy factories explain the traditional production process in full. Anchovies are caught in spring and early summer in the Gulf of Roses, cleaned and layered alternately with coarse sea salt in large wooden barrels, and left to cure under weighted lids for a minimum of six months. At the end of maturation, the cured fish are hand-cleaned, filleted, and packed in extra-virgin olive oil or preserved in salt. The guide explains how to distinguish grades of anxova — from the delicate, silken texture of hand-filleted premium anchovies to the stronger, saltier profile of barrel-packed whole fish — and demonstrates correct preparation: a rinse under cold water, a drizzle of good olive oil, served on crusty country bread.
Anxoves Solé, one of L'Escala's most established producers operating since the mid-20th century, offers factory visits and tastings by appointment. The visit includes the salting and maturation rooms, an explanation of the seasonal catch cycle, and a guided tasting covering multiple grades of anchovy alongside local Empordà olive oils and wines from the Empordà DO. The tasting typically extends to other preserved seafood: tuna belly (ventresca), mackerel in olive oil, and octopus conservas.
The experience pairs naturally with a visit to the nearby Graeco-Roman archaeological site of Empúries, located two kilometres from L'Escala, which contextualises the area's long history of Mediterranean trade and seafood culture stretching back to the 6th century BC. Factory visit, tasting, and Empúries together fill a comfortable half to full day in the Alt Empordà.
Good to know
- Operator
- Anxoves Solé
Highlights
- Anchovy salting factory visit
- Traditional production process
- Anchovy tasting (various grades)
- Local olive oil and wine pairing
- L'Escala old town and Greek ruins nearby
Tips for visiting
- Book a factory visit at Anxoves Solé directly by telephone (+34 972 770 269) — walk-in visits are not always possible and access to the production area requires prior arrangement.
- Combine the anchovy visit with a walk through L'Escala's old fishing port and a visit to the Empúries ruins for a full day in the Alt Empordà.
- Buy anchovies to take home — vacuum-packed versions travel well and are considerably cheaper at source than in Barcelona specialty shops.
- Visit between April and July to observe active production during the salting season; at other times the maturation barrels are visible but the fresh salting process is not underway.
- Allow at least 90 minutes from Girona train station to L'Escala by car; the coastal road is scenic but slow, with no direct bus connection.
Frequently asked questions
Why are L'Escala anchovies considered exceptional?
L'Escala anchovies carry EU PDO status and are distinguished by a minimum six-month salt-curing period in wooden barrels. The local anchovy population (Engraulis encrasicolus) from the Gulf of Roses and the traditional Sicilian-derived technique produce a flavour and texture considered distinct from commercially produced alternatives.
When is the best time to visit for the production season?
The salting season runs from April to July, when fresh anchovies are caught and cured. Visiting in this period allows observation of active production. Tours operate year-round, with the maturing barrels visible at all times of year.
Is L'Escala accessible without a car?
L'Escala can be reached by regional bus from Girona (approximately 45 minutes) with connections from Girona's train station on the Barcelona–Figueres line. A direct journey from Barcelona by public transport requires a change in Girona and takes approximately three hours in total.
What other seafood products are tasted on the tour?
In addition to anchovies, most factory tastings include ventresca (tuna belly), preserved mackerel, octopus in olive oil, and a selection of local conservas. The accompanying olive oils are typically from Empordà producers.