Tri Šešira

Tri Šešira (Three Hats) is a Skadarlija institution at Skadarska 29, operating since 1864 on the cobbled bohemian street in Belgrade's Stari Grad. Skadarlija grew into the city's artists' quarter in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and Tri Šešira is among the best-known kafanas that carry that tradition. The cuisine is Serbian kafana cooking, with the menu centred on grilled meat and old-Belgrade dishes rather than any chef lineage or Michelin recognition. Signature orders include the mixed Serbian grill (mešano meso), ćevapi, punjena pljeskavica (a stuffed minced-meat patty) and palačinke (thin pancakes) for dessert. The dining character is the main draw. In the evening, live tamburitza musicians move between the tables, so music is part of the meal and the noise level is high, festive and conversational only at close range. The setting is touristy but atmospheric; there is no strict dress code, and the mood suits groups, couples out for a lively night and first-time visitors who want the full kafana experience. Prices are higher than at ordinary old-town kafanas, with a typical spend of about 2,500-4,500 RSD per person, reflecting the location and entertainment. The drinks list follows kafana tradition, with rakija, Serbian beer and local wines, and no distinctive cellar programme. Reservations are recommended for dinner and on weekends. The venue's own guidance is to reserve at the door earlier in the day, or to have hotel reception phone on a visitor's behalf; no direct phone number is listed here. Skadarska is a short walk from Republic Square and Knez Mihailova, so the restaurant combines easily with a stroll through the quarter in Belgrade, Serbia, particularly after sunset when the street lighting and music create the quarter's best-known atmosphere.