Dva Jelena (Two Deer)

Dva Jelena (Two Deer) is one of the oldest kafanas on Skadarska street, at Skadarska 32 in the Skadarlija quarter of Stari Grad, Belgrade. Its large terrace under the trees is the feature most visitors remember, and in the evening traditional live music adds to the cobbled-street atmosphere that Skadarlija is known for. The cuisine is classic Serbian kafana cooking with no chef or Michelin context; the kitchen is judged on honest grilled meats, stews and salads. Signature dishes include a grilled meat platter, sarma (cabbage rolls), ćevapi and roasted veal. The platter is the typical choice for groups, and roasted veal is a good alternative for diners who want something less grill-driven. The dining room character is traditional and convivial. Tables on the terrace sit beneath foliage, and there is no formal dress code; the noise level rises in the evening as music begins and the street fills. The venue is a few doors from other well-known Skadarlija kafanas, so it is often compared with Tri Šešira across the street. Typical spending is about 2,500-4,500 RSD per person, similar to its neighbours and higher than outlying kafanas. The beverage side follows tradition, with rakija, Serbian beer and local wines available, though there is no notable cellar. Reservations are generally easy. Walk-in seating works for lunch, while the phone number +381 11 7234 885 can be used to secure a dinner table, which is advisable on weekends and in summer when the terrace is most in demand. Skadarska is a short walk from Republic Square and Knez Mihailova, so a meal here fits naturally into a day of walking through the old town in Belgrade, Serbia. Visitors who prefer a quieter table can ask for a seat away from the musicians.