Belgrade is the capital and largest city of Serbia, set at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Known for the Kalemegdan Fortress, the bohemian Skadarlija quarter, the Temple of Saint Sava and a lively splavovi (river barge) nightlife, it blends Ottoman, Habsburg and Yugoslav layers into one of the Balkans' most energetic cities.
Cultural orientation
Essential context for travellers.
Serbs are warm, direct and hospitable; expect long conversations, frequent offers of coffee or rakija and strong opinions about history, football and politics
Greet with a firm handshake and eye contact; close friends kiss on the cheek, often three times (left, right, left). Say 'Dobar dan' (good day) when entering shops and small restaurants
A coffee (kafa) is a social ritual: people sit for an hour or more over one drink, and the waiter will not rush you. Ask for the bill (racun) when ready
Smoking is still common indoors despite the legal ban in enclosed public places; many cafes and bars have smoking sections or are smoky, so ask for a table outside if you prefer clean air
Cyrillic and Latin scripts are both used, and Serbian is written in both; learning to read Cyrillic street signs helps on public transport
Slava (family patron saint day) is a major household celebration; if invited, bring a small gift such as sweets or wine, and expect lots of food
Serbia is not in the EU or the Schengen area; passport control applies when entering and leaving, and cash dinars are used day to day
Do not assume Serbians and neighbouring nations share views; avoid bringing up the Yugoslav wars, Kosovo or the 1999 NATO bombing unless a local raises it first
Do's and don'ts
Quick guide to local norms.
Do
- Do shake hands and make eye contact when meeting people, and use titles such as 'gospodine' (Mr) and 'gospodjo' (Mrs) with strangers
- Do accept offers of coffee, rakija, or food from hosts; refusing can offend, but a polite 'hvala, dovoljno je' (thanks, that is enough) works
- Do remove your shoes when entering a Serbian home unless the host says otherwise
- Do bring a small gift (flowers, chocolates, a bottle of wine) when invited home
- Do dress modestly and cover shoulders and knees in churches and monasteries, and men should remove hats
- Do tip about 10% in restaurants and round up taxi fares
- Do try local food: burek, kajmak, cevapi, sarma, pljeskavica, ajvar and a glass of rakija with a meal
- Do say 'Zivjeli' (cheers) and make eye contact when toasting
Don't
- Don't compare Serbia with neighbouring countries or call it 'the Balkans' in a negative tone; Serbs may be sensitive about it
- Don't joke about the Yugoslav wars, Kosovo, the 1999 NATO bombing or Serbian-Albanian relations
- Don't refuse hospitality sharply or leave a drink or meal half finished without explanation
- Don't photograph military buildings, police operations or government sites
- Don't point with a finger at people or sit with your feet on furniture in someone's home
- Don't wear revealing clothing inside churches and monasteries or take photos during services without asking
- Don't make public displays of affection with a same-sex partner outside welcoming venues, as attitudes can be conservative
- Don't take unlicensed taxis from the airport or station, or give your passport to anyone who is not an official
Local customs
Traditions and practices you'll encounter.
Etiquette by setting
How to navigate everyday situations.
- Greetings
- Handshakes are firm and accompanied by eye contact. Friends and family kiss on the cheek three times. Use 'Dobro jutro' (good morning), 'Dobar dan' (good day) and 'Dobro vece' (good evening).
- Dining
- Meals are social and long. Wait for the host to say 'Prijatno' (enjoy) before eating. Sharing from a common plate is normal. Don't start drinking before the first toast ('Zivjeli'), and make eye contact when you clink glasses.
- Dress
- Casual but smart is the norm in the city; locals tend to dress up for dinner and nightlife. Cover shoulders and knees in churches and monasteries.
- Gifts
- If invited to a home, bring flowers (an odd number), chocolates or a bottle of wine or rakija for the host. Wrap gifts neatly.
- Business
- Business meetings are formal at first; punctuality is expected from visitors though meetings may begin late. Exchange business cards, and expect small talk over coffee before business starts.
- Tipping
- Tip about 10% in restaurants and cafes by rounding up the bill or handing cash to the server; round up taxi fares by 50-100 RSD (~$0.50-1). Tipping hotel porters 100-200 RSD (~$1-2) per bag is appreciated.
Useful phrases
A few words go a long way.
Dobar dan
Hello / Good day
DOH-bar dahn
Zdravo
Hi (informal)
ZDRAH-voh
Molim
Please / You're welcome
MOH-leem
Hvala
Thank you
HVAH-lah
Da / Ne
Yes / No
dah / neh
Izvinite
Excuse me / Sorry
eez-VEE-nee-teh
Zivjeli!
Cheers!
ZHEE-vyeh-lee
Koliko kosta?
How much does it cost?
KOH-lee-koh KOSH-tah
Racun, molim
The bill, please
RAH-choon MOH-leem
Govorite li engleski?
Do you speak English?
GOH-voh-ree-teh lee EN-gleh-skee
Ne razumem
I don't understand
neh RAH-zoo-mem
Dovidjenja
Goodbye
doh-VEE-jen-yah
Religion & spirituality
Understanding faith in Belgrade.
Main: Serbian Orthodox Christianity is the main faith, followed by the large majority of ethnic Serbs; the Serbian Orthodox Church is central to national identity. Smaller communities include Roman Catholics, Muslims, Protestants and Jews.
Sites: Temple of Saint Sava (Svetog Save 1, Vracar), Saint Sava's Cathedral crypt, Saborna Crkva (Orthodox Cathedral, Kralja Petra 5), Church of Saint Mark (Tasmajdan), Bajrakli Mosque (Gospodar Jevremova 11), Saint Anthony's Catholic church, and the Jewish Historical Museum (Kralja Petra 71a)
Holy Days: Orthodox Christmas (7 January), Orthodox Easter (date varies, often one week after Western Easter), Slava days (family patron saint days) and Epiphany (19 January). Many shops close on 7 January and Easter Sunday.
Conversations: Religion and nation are closely linked; be respectful and avoid debating church politics. Asking about local customs, such as Slava or painting Easter eggs, is welcomed.