Al Hoceima Cala Iris and Badis

Cala Iris and Badis lie on the remote Mediterranean coast of the Rif in northern Morocco, west of Al Hoceima. Cala Iris, in Beni Boufrah, is about 60 km from Al Hoceima, and the drive takes 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes via the coastal road and then the Cala Iris access road. Public transport is limited, so most visitors use a rental car or hire a licensed grand taxi charter for the day, with prices of about 500 to 700 MAD ($54-75) agreed in advance. Fuel for a rental car runs about 150 to 250 MAD ($16-27); all figures are estimates. Cala Iris is a small fishing village with a sheltered cove, a pebble and sand beach, simple cafes and clear turquoise water; it is quiet outside July and August. Badis, further along the coast, is known for its historic rock, the Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera, a Spanish-held islet linked to the mainland by a sand strip, and for its old fortress ruins and long beach. Photographs of the islands are permitted from the beach, but visitors should not approach the military islands and enclaves offshore. A sensible day starts early from Al Hoceima, drives the scenic coastal road with viewpoints over cliffs, and reaches Cala Iris by late morning for swimming and a seafood lunch at a beach cafe costing about 50 to 120 MAD ($5.40-13). The afternoon is for a walk along the shore or a further drive toward Badis before starting back with plenty of daylight. The best period is June to September for swimming, and the road is quietest outside July and August. Travelling without cash, water and a full tank is a mistake because services are sparse and card payments are rare. The Rif roads include bends and occasional rockfalls, so slow driving is advisable. Mobile signal may drop in places along the coast.