Tetouan Medina

Tetouan is a white city between the Rif mountains and the Martil valley in northern Morocco, about 60 km from Tangier. Its medina, entered through gates such as Bab er-Rouah, is a UNESCO-listed old town shaped by Andalusian refugees, and is less touristy than other Moroccan medinas. The CTM bus from the Tangier bus station takes about 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes and costs around 35 to 50 MAD ($3.75-5.40); a petit taxi then reaches Bab er-Rouah or Place Hassan II. A shared grand taxi from Tangier is the alternative, at about 40 to 60 MAD ($4.30-6.50) per seat. The medina centres on Place Hassan II, formerly the Spanish-era royal square, near the royal palace. Visitors can explore the leather and metal craft quarters, the dyers and tanners, the souks selling spices, textiles and olives, and the Artisan School and archaeological museum, where fees are typically 10 to 30 MAD (about $1-3), confirm on site. A sensible day starts with a morning bus, a walk through the Bab er-Rouah entrance when the souks are opening, then craft workshops and museum visits before lunch. Lunch in local restaurants costs about 50 to 110 MAD ($5.40-12), with dishes such as bissara, grilled fish or tagine. The afternoon suits the quieter lanes of the Mellah and the new town's Spanish-influenced architecture before a late-afternoon return. The medina is pleasant year-round, apart from midday in summer, and March to June and September to November are best. Friday midday is best avoided since many shops close, and visitors should decline unlicensed guides who steer them to shops for commission. Tetouan can be combined with M'diq and Martil on the coast, or with Chefchaouen, as a longer itinerary. Pastries from the local bakeries, including almond sweets, make good souvenirs to take home.