Lixus Roman Ruins

Lixus is one of the oldest ancient sites in Morocco, on a hill above the Loukkos estuary about four kilometres from Larache on the Atlantic coast. Founded by the Phoenicians around the seventh century BC or earlier, it later passed to Carthage and then Rome, becoming a prosperous port known for salted fish and garum, the fermented fish sauce traded across the Roman world. Visitors climb the hill by a path through the ruins, passing the remains of fish-salting vats, a Roman theatre and amphitheatre unusual for being combined in one complex, a set of baths with mosaics including a figure of Oceanus, temples and an acropolis with Phoenician-era walls. From the summit the views extend over the Loukkos river, its salt marshes and the Atlantic horizon, with Larache's old town visible in the distance. Some of the best-preserved remains are on the lower slopes, while the acropolis is rougher and more overgrown. A visit takes one to two hours, longer for photographers. The guardian opens the site in daylight and hours vary, with a reported ticket of about 10 to 20 MAD. Mornings give soft light over the estuary and cooler temperatures, while midday in summer is hot and shade is limited. Crowds are rarely an issue, and the site is often nearly empty, with only the occasional tour group. A petit taxi from Larache takes about ten minutes, and visitors should agree on a waiting time before setting out. A local guide at the gate can explain the ruins and is useful because signage is sparse.