Larache Old Town and Place de la Liberation

The Place de la Liberation, still widely called Plaza de Espana, is the centre of Larache's old town on the Atlantic coast of northern Morocco. The square is a large, arcaded space laid out in the Spanish protectorate period, with cafes, a fountain, a clock and a Spanish-style cathedral building facing it, and it opens through the Bab el-Khemis arch onto the medina. Visitors walk through the arch into the old town, where narrow lanes lead to the covered Souk el-Hout and the Kasbah de la Cigogne, with views of the harbour and the Loukkos river. The plaza is a social space, and in the evening families, children and groups of friends gather around the fountain and cafe terraces, which makes it the best time for a visit. The medina has whitewashed houses with blue accents and a quieter, more local atmosphere than larger tourist medinas, as well as a fish market near the port. A visit takes one to two hours, covering the plaza, the medina lanes and a short walk to the seafront. Admission is free and the square is always open. The city's riverside and the nearby tomb of writer Jean Genet in the Spanish cemetery add literary interest for those with more time. Midday is hot and quiet, with many shops closed, while evening gives the busiest and most atmospheric scene. Larache can be reached from Tangier by CTM or local bus in about one and a half to two hours, or by shared grand taxi from Asilah.