Riga is the capital and largest city of Latvia, on the Daugava river near the Gulf of Riga. Known for its UNESCO-listed Old Town, Europe's greatest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture, the vast Central Market and a growing craft-beer and restaurant scene, it blends Hanseatic, Swedish, Russian and Soviet layers into one of the Baltics' most walkable capitals.
Latvian cooking is built on rye bread, pork, potatoes, dairy and Baltic and river fish, with German, Russian and Nordic influences. Staples are grey peas with bacon (pelēkie zirņi ar speķi), cold beet soup, smoked fish, pelmeņi dumplings and dark rye bread (rupjmaize). Riga adds a young scene: two Michelin-starred restaurants (JOHN Chef's Hall and Max Cekot Kitchen), several Bib Gourmand listings, and cheap pay-by-weight Lido buffets. Riga Central Market, housed in former Zeppelin hangars, is the best single place to taste Latvian food.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Riga.
Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi
Grey peas stewed and served with fried bacon and onion, often with sour cream; a national dish
Where to try: Milda, Lido Atpūtas Centrs, Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs
Price: Part of a €12-30 (~$14-35) meal
Rupjmaize (dark rye bread)
Dense sour rye bread, eaten with butter, smoked fish or as a dessert layered with whipped cream and berries
Where to try: Lido Atpūtas Centrs and Riga Central Market
Latvian pelmeni
Meat dumplings served with sour cream
Where to try: Milda
Price: Within Milda's €15-30 (~$17-35) range
Smoked fish
Smoked Baltic fish sold by weight in the Central Market fish pavilion
Where to try: Riga Central Market fish pavilion
Aukstā zupa
Cold beet and kefir soup with egg and potato, a summer dish
Where to try: Lido Atpūtas Centrs (seasonal)
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Brasserie
Japanese
Modern Latvian
Neapolitan Pizza
Seasonal Latvian With International Influences
Food tours & tastings in Riga
Eat your way through Riga with a guide.
Browse food experiences in RigaWe may earn a commission from bookings made through these links.
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Market samples and smoked fish
Cheese, sausage and smoked fish from stalls and pavilions at the Central Market
Find it at: Riga Central Market, Nēģu iela 7
Kvass
Fermented rye drink sold at the market
Find it at: Riga Central Market
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Riga Central Market (Rīgas Centrāltirgus)
One of Europe's largest markets, in five former Zeppelin-hangar pavilions for vegetables, dairy, meat, fish and gastronomy products, next to the railway and bus stations
Hours: Pavilions about 07:30-17:00 or 18:00 (sources differ); outdoor stalls 07:00-18:00; confirm at centraltirgus.lv
Āgenskalns Market
A neighbourhood market across the Daugava with a weekly guided gastro tour
Hours: See agenskalnatirgus.lv
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Tip about 10% for table service; service is not always included
Latvian food is hearty; the Lido buffets let a solo traveler choose small portions
Michelin tasting restaurants book weeks ahead and often open only Thursday to Saturday
Market vendors are mostly cash only; carry euros
Old Town tourist restaurants charge more than the Centrs district; walk 10 minutes for better value
Several Riga restaurants are closed Mondays or Fridays; check hours
- Vegetarian
- Limited in traditional venues; pelmeni and grey peas without bacon can be requested. Market produce and dairy are plentiful.
- Halal
- Few halal venues; fish and vegetable dishes are the safest choices.
- Gluten free
- Rye bread and dumplings contain gluten; grilled meat, fish and potatoes are safe. Confirm with staff.
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | €10-15 (~$12-17) per meal | Lido buffet (about €12 including a beer) or Shōyu ramen |
| Mid-range | €20-40 (~$23-46) per meal | Milda, Snatch or Neiburgs with a drink |
| Upscale | €120+ (~$138+) per meal | JOHN Chef's Hall or Max Cekot Kitchen tasting menu |