Piazza delle Erbe

Piazza delle Erbe is the liveliest square in Verona's historic centre, in Italy's Veneto region, and occupies the site of the ancient Roman forum. Its elongated shape still follows the line of the old public space, and the name, meaning Square of the Herbs, recalls the produce market that has traded here for centuries. Today rows of white-canopied market stalls fill the centre of the square during the day, selling souvenirs, local food, leather goods and trinkets, while cafes and restaurants with outdoor tables line the edges. Around the perimeter stand some of the city's most attractive buildings: palaces with frescoed facades, the Baroque Palazzo Maffei at one end, the medieval Casa dei Mercanti and the tall Torre dei Lamberti rising behind. In the middle stands the Madonna Verona fountain, whose central statue is Roman in origin and was reworked in the fourteenth century, along with a market column topped by the winged Lion of St Mark, a reminder of Venetian rule. A canopy-covered stone tribune known as the capitello and a column once used for public announcements add to the historic detail. A visit normally takes 30 to 60 minutes, though many people linger longer over an aperitivo. The square is open around the clock, but stalls run mainly in the daytime, so mornings are the best time to see them in full operation. Good photo angles include the view toward the Torre dei Lamberti from the south end, the frescoed Casa Mazzanti facade, and the lion column set against the evening sky. The square is crowded in the middle of the day, particularly in summer and on weekends, and again in the early evening when spritz drinkers fill the terraces. Early morning offers the calmest light. Via Cappello leads from the square to Juliet's House, and Piazza dei Signori is reached through the Arco della Costa, so the square is a natural hub for walking in the old town. Prices at cafes directly on the square are higher than in side streets, which visitors should keep in mind when ordering.