Ristorante Conte Fabiani

Ristorante Conte Fabiani sits on Piazza dei Quaranta Martiri, the broad square at the main entrance to Gubbio's old town, and is a well-known, dependable restaurant and osteria that makes a relaxed, good-value alternative to the town's grander dining rooms. It is the kind of place visitors arriving in Gubbio gravitate to - easy to find, generous and rooted in the local tradition. The menu runs through the Umbrian and Eugubine canon: torta al testo, the flatbread cooked on a griddle and stuffed with salumi or greens, is a natural opener; truffle pasta brings the black truffle of the surrounding hills to hand-rolled local noodles; and grilled meats, game and seasonal vegetables fill out the secondi. Cooking is honest and traditional rather than refined, served in generous portions. The dining room and outdoor terrace on the square are casual and family-friendly, with a lively but comfortable atmosphere and a moderate noise level; dress is casual, and the terrace is a pleasant spot to watch the comings and goings of the piazza in warm weather. The wine list is sensibly regional, led by Umbrian reds and whites at fair prices. Conte Fabiani serves lunch and dinner daily, which makes it a convenient stop at almost any hour. Prices are moderate, good value for the quality and quantity. Because of its prominent position and reputation, it can get busy at peak times, so booking ahead for dinner and weekends is advisable, and requesting a terrace table is worthwhile in summer. The autumn truffle season is the moment for the truffle pasta. First-time visitors should begin with torta al testo and a truffle pasta to sample the Gubbio tradition the kitchen does well.