Il Postale

Il Postale is chef Marco Bistarelli's intimate fine-dining restaurant, set within the Castello di Monterone hotel on Strada Montevile, on the edge of Perugia. Long one of Umbria's most respected kitchens, the restaurant made its name in Citta di Castello before relocating to the medieval castle-hotel in Perugia in 2010, bringing with it a cellar of more than 350 labels that remains one of its defining strengths. The cooking is creative Umbrian fine dining, expressed chiefly through tasting menus and chef's degustation courses that change with the season. Bistarelli reworks regional ingredients - black truffle, game, Umbrian produce - with technique and a contemporary sensibility, building plates that are refined and considered rather than rustic. The dining room is small and quietly luxurious, in keeping with the castle setting, with well-spaced tables, a calm atmosphere and a strong sense of occasion; dress is smart. The wine programme is the other great draw: the 350-plus-label cellar spans Umbrian, Italian and international selections, with knowledgeable pairing advice that rewards trusting the floor. Service is polished and attentive. Il Postale serves dinner by reservation, with limited covers. Prices sit at the top of the spectrum, the highest bracket in this guide, reflecting the tasting-menu format and the cellar. Because seats are few and the restaurant is a destination, booking ahead is essential, particularly for weekends and the autumn truffle season; guests at the Castello di Monterone have the convenience of dining in-house. First-time visitors should take a tasting menu with a wine pairing from the deep cellar to experience both the kitchen and the cellar that have built Il Postale's long-standing reputation.