Rocca Maggiore, Assisi

Crowning the hill above Assisi, the Rocca Maggiore is the commanding medieval fortress that closes the skyline of the town. Largely rebuilt by Cardinal Albornoz from 1367 on the foundations of an earlier imperial castle, it served to assert papal control over the city below. Visitors come above all for the position: from the keep, ramparts and corner towers the view sweeps over the Basilica di San Francesco, the tiled roofs of the old town and far across the green Spoleto valley, taking in the patchwork of fields, olive groves and distant hills. Inside the walls, a long vaulted corridor and a polygonal tower can be explored, with displays on medieval arms and life in the fortress; climbing the narrow internal stairs to the highest point is the reward, though it is not for those uneasy with confined spaces. A visit usually takes an hour to ninety minutes, including the steep climb up from the centre. The approach is on foot up the upper lanes from Piazza del Comune, around fifteen minutes uphill, so sturdy shoes and a slow pace help in the heat. The Rocca is busiest in the middle of the day and quietest early or late; late afternoon brings golden light over the valley and the best photographs from the ramparts. Admission is modest, around six euros for adults, paid at the entrance. The fortress is part of the historic ensemble of Assisi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and offers the finest overview of how the town sits in its Umbrian landscape, making it a memorable counterpoint to the religious sights below.