Eremo delle Carceri (Hermitage), Assisi

Hidden in a fold of dense holm-oak forest on the flank of Monte Subasio, about four kilometres above Assisi, the Eremo delle Carceri is the hermitage where Saint Francis and his early companions withdrew to pray in solitude. The name comes from the carceri, the secluded caves or prisons of contemplation scattered through the wood. From the small entrance courtyard, a narrow stair leads down past the tiny 15th-century church and friary built around the original grotto of Saint Francis, where visitors can see the bare stone cell and rock bed said to have been used by the saint. Beyond the buildings, marked paths wind through the ancient ilex wood to further hermit caves, a stone bridge over a now-dry torrent, and the gnarled tree where Francis is said to have preached to the birds. The setting, rather than any single artwork, is the attraction: cool, green, silent and steeply wooded, in sharp contrast to the monumental basilicas in the town below. Most visitors spend an hour to ninety minutes here, including time to walk the woodland trails, which connect onward into the Monte Subasio regional park for longer hikes. The hermitage is reached by a steep road or footpath from Assisi and has limited parking, so arriving early avoids both crowds and parking problems. It is a working Franciscan community, so quiet and modest dress are expected, and entry is free with donations welcomed. Early morning, when birdsong fills the wood and the air is cool, is the most atmospheric time to come. The site lies within the protected landscape around Assisi, a UNESCO World Heritage area.