Buca Lapi

Buca Lapi occupies the vaulted brick cellars beneath Palazzo Antinori in central Florence and claims a continuous history since 1880, making it one of the oldest restaurants in the Tuscan capital. The subterranean rooms are famously papered with vintage travel posters and steamship advertisements collected over more than a century, giving the dining room a warm, cluttered and distinctly Florentine character. The kitchen is built around the bistecca alla fiorentina, the thick Chianina T-bone grilled rare over charcoal and served by weight; it remains the dish most guests come for, seasoned simply with salt, pepper and Tuscan olive oil. Around that centrepiece the menu runs through the canon of Florentine cooking: ribollita, the twice-cooked bread and vegetable soup; pappardelle al cinghiale with wild boar ragu; and seasonal antipasti of cured meats and crostini. The wine list leans on Antinori labels given the restaurant's position below the family palazzo, alongside a broad spread of Chianti Classico and Super Tuscan bottlings. The atmosphere is convivial and can grow loud when the cellar fills, with closely set tables and brisk, professional service. Dinner is the only service, Monday to Saturday, and the restaurant is small, so reservations are essential and should be made well in advance, particularly in spring and autumn when Florence is busiest. Prices sit in the upper-moderate to expensive range in Italy, with the bistecca billed per 100 grams and easily shared between two diners. The portions are generous and a typical meal of antipasto, a shared steak, a side of cannellini beans and a bottle of Chianti makes for a substantial evening. Buca Lapi is a fixture of any serious Florentine eating itinerary, valued less for innovation than for the consistency with which it has served the city's signature steak in an unmistakable historic setting beneath one of Florence's noble palaces.