Merano and Trauttmansdorff Gardens

Merano (Meran), the second city of South Tyrol, sits in a sheltered basin only about 30 kilometres from Bolzano and a 40-minute train ride away, and its mild, almost Mediterranean climate has made it a spa resort since the 19th century. The undisputed highlight is the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle, an extraordinary botanical garden where some 80 themed garden worlds tumble down a natural amphitheatre of hillside, from terraced sun gardens of olives and grapes to forests of the world and water gardens, all framed by sweeping views of the surrounding peaks; the castle at its heart, once a retreat of Empress Sisi, houses the Touriseum, a lively museum of Tyrolean tourism history. The gardens are open daily from April to November and admission is around 17 euro, which also covers the Touriseum. A satisfying day takes in the gardens in the morning, when the light is good and the terraces quieter, reached by local bus or a short taxi from the centre, then returns to explore Merano itself. The town's arcaded medieval streets, the Lauben, are lined with shops and cafes, while the elegant Tappeiner and Sissi promenades wind along the hillside and the Passirio river through gardens of palms and cypresses. An afternoon is well spent at the Therme Merano, the modern thermal baths in the heart of town, with indoor and outdoor pools and saunas, with entry from around 18 euro. Merano is also a gateway to the wine-growing Burggrafenamt and the apple orchards of the Adige and Venosta valleys, and its cafes and restaurants serve a refined blend of Tyrolean and Italian cooking. The gardens are at their best in spring and early autumn, spectacular with bulbs and blossom in April and May and with rich colour and grape harvest in September and October; they close from late November to late March, so winter visitors focus on the old town and the spa. Comfortable shoes help on the garden's sloping paths.