Segesta Temple and Theatre

Segesta, in the hills of north-west Sicily near Calatafimi in the Trapani province, preserves two of the most beautifully sited ancient monuments on the island, standing in near-total isolation in unspoiled rolling countryside. The great Doric temple, built around 420 BC, crowns a low hill and is astonishingly complete, its 36 columns and full entablature intact, yet it was never finished: the columns were left unfluted and there is no sign of a roof or cella walls, leading scholars to suggest the temple may have been begun by the local Elymian people partly to impress allies. Its solitary perfection against the green hills makes it one of the most photographed temples in the Mediterranean. A short distance higher up Monte Barbaro stands the Greek theatre, carved into the hillside in the 3rd century BC, its semicircle of stone seats opening onto a sweeping panorama across the valleys toward the Gulf of Castellammare, a backdrop still used for classical drama and concerts on summer evenings. Between the two sites lie the scattered remains of the ancient city and a medieval village. A visit takes around two hours; the theatre sits well above the car park and temple, so a shuttle bus runs up the steep road, sparing a hot climb. The setting is rural and exposed, gloriously quiet compared with Sicily's busier sites, and loveliest in the late afternoon when low light gilds the temple's columns. Sturdy shoes, water, and sun protection are advisable on this open hillside of western Sicily.