Portofino and the Piazzetta

Portofino is a tiny, exclusive fishing village of around 380 residents wrapped around a perfect crescent harbour on the Gulf of Tigullio, on the southern tip of the wooded Portofino peninsula. Tall pastel houses, their ground floors filled with designer boutiques and waterfront cafes, rise directly from the quay where luxury yachts moor alongside the last working fishing boats. At the head of the harbour lies the Piazzetta, formally Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta, the small square that has drawn European aristocracy, film stars and the international jet set since the late 19th century and remains the social heart of the village. Visitors come to stroll the harbourfront, watch the yachts and the people, climb the easy paths to the church of San Giorgio, Castello Brown and the lighthouse on the point, and simply soak up the glamour. There is little of conventional sightseeing here; the village is the attraction, and an unhurried visit takes a half day. Portofino is reached by a scenic coastal road and bus from Santa Margherita Ligure, by ferry from Santa Margherita, Rapallo or Camogli, or on foot by the coastal path from Paraggi. Parking is extremely scarce and costly, so arriving by boat or bus is far easier. The village is busiest from late morning, when day-trippers and yacht parties arrive, so mornings and evenings are calmer and more atmospheric. The harbour framed by pastel houses, seen from the breakwater or from Castello Brown above, is the classic photograph. Cafe and restaurant prices on the Piazzetta are among the highest in Liguria, so many visitors enjoy a single coffee and the people-watching. Portofino sits within the Portofino regional park, easily combined with Santa Margherita and the abbey at San Fruttuoso.