Retroscena is a contemporary restaurant on Via Saverio Mercadante in Bari's old town, Apulia, where a young kitchen crew applies modern technique to the cuisine of the Murge plateau and the Adriatic coast. The name — Retroscena, meaning backstage — reflects the restaurant's position behind the tourist-facing centre of Bari Vecchia, and the cooking shares that sensibility: thoughtful, slightly hidden, and more interested in substance than spectacle.
The menu reinterprets the Apulian canon through the lens of contemporary Italian cooking. Orecchiette reinterpretate arrives as a recognisable format reworked with seasonal ingredients and unexpected textures — the pasta remains hand-pressed but the sauce changes with what is available. Lampascioni, the bitter wild hyacinth bulb that Apulia's peasant cooks have braised, pickled, and preserved for centuries, appears as an antipasto prepared with enough refinement to convert visitors who have not encountered it before. Capocollo di Martina Franca — the DOP-protected cured pork from the nearby Valle d'Itria — is paired with burrata in a combination that places two of Apulia's most celebrated artisan products alongside each other.
The dining room is small: exposed stone walls, wooden furniture, and a short but carefully assembled wine list focused on Puglia's native varietals. The atmosphere is informal by the region's fine-dining standards — the noise level is moderate and conversation flows easily. Sunday lunch is not served; Monday is a full closure day. Reservations are recommended, particularly for weekend dinners, and can be made by phone (+39 080 979 8048). Prices sit in the mid-range: antipasto courses run €10–14, pasta dishes €13–16, making this one of the better-value options for contemporary Apulian cooking in Bari.
Signature dishes
- Orecchiette reinterpretate — €14 (~$15.10)
- Lampascioni (wild hyacinth bulb) antipasto — €10 (~$10.80)
- Capocollo di Martina Franca with burrata — €13 (~$14)
Good to know
- Known for
- Young chef reinterpreting Apulian classics with modern techniques inside Bari old town
- Hours
- 12:30–14:30, 20:00–22:30; closed Sunday lunch and Monday
- Reservations
- Recommended; +39 080 979 8048
Location
Via Saverio Mercadante 6, 70122 Bari BA, Italy
41.1248, 16.8718 View on map
Highlights
- Creative modern reinterpretations of classic Apulian dishes using local and seasonal ingredients
- Lampascioni antipasto — wild hyacinth bulb prepared to introduce an unfamiliar Apulian ingredient accessibly
- Capocollo di Martina Franca DOP paired with Andria burrata — two regional artisan products together
- Mid-range pricing for contemporary cooking inside Bari Vecchia's historic stone quarter
Tips for visiting
- Reserve by phone (+39 080 979 8048) for Friday and Saturday dinners — the small room fills quickly
- Sunday lunch is not served — plan evening visits or weekday lunches instead
- Ask about the lampascioni preparation before ordering if unfamiliar — the kitchen can explain the ingredient's character
- The wine list is short but well-curated for native Apulian varietals; the staff can recommend by grape or weight
- Ordering both the antipasto and pasta courses is worthwhile; mains are smaller in proportion
Accessibility
Retroscena is located within Bari Vecchia's historic quarter, accessed via cobblestone lanes that are not wheelchair-friendly. The restaurant's ground-floor dining room has a step at the entrance. Visitors with mobility requirements should contact the restaurant in advance.
Frequently asked questions
What style of food does Retroscena serve?
The kitchen serves creative modern Apulian cooking — classical regional ingredients and preparations reinterpreted with contemporary technique. The focus stays firmly on Puglia's produce rather than trending international influences.
Is Retroscena suitable for a special-occasion dinner?
Yes, the restaurant suits a considered dinner without the formal atmosphere of higher-priced establishments. It is more intimate than celebratory in character, making it well-suited for couples or small groups who want considered cooking without stiffness.
What is lampascioni?
Lampascioni (Muscari comosum) are wild hyacinth bulbs harvested in Apulia's countryside. They have an intensely bitter, slightly sweet flavour and are traditionally braised in olive oil or pickled in vinegar. The kitchen at Retroscena typically prepares them as a refined antipasto component.
Is there parking near the restaurant?
Bari Vecchia's historic lanes do not permit car access. The nearest parking areas are at the waterfront or along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, a short walk from the restaurant.