Cisternino Old Town

Cisternino is a compact whitewashed hilltop town in the Brindisi province of Apulia, perched at 394 metres above the Valle d'Itria with open views over the trulli-studded countryside below. Though smaller and less visited than Alberobello or Ostuni, Cisternino is considered by many regional food enthusiasts the authentic gastronomic heart of the Valle d'Itria. The historic centre, fully pedestrianised and enclosed within remnants of medieval walls, is built to a characteristic Apulian pattern of white lanes, irregular piazzas, and Baroque churches — the 13th-century Church of San Nicola at the hill's summit being the most prominent landmark. The town is most famous for its fornello pronto tradition: butcher shops (macellerie) throughout the old town operate evening grills where customers select raw cuts of meat from a chilled counter and have them cooked to order while drinking local wine at tables set up in the street or courtyard outside. This practice — dating to at least the 19th century and unique to Cisternino and a handful of neighbouring towns — produces some of the most memorable informal dining experiences in Apulia. The typical cuts include bombette (pork rolls stuffed with cheese and local cured meat), gnummareddi (lamb intestines on skewers), and local sausages. Via Osanna and the surrounding lanes concentrate the most established macellerie. The belvedere terrace at the western edge of the old town commands a sweeping panorama over the Valle d'Itria towards Locorotondo and Alberobello, offering one of the finest views in the region. Cisternino is 20 km from Alberobello and 8 km from Martina Franca, making it a natural stop on any Valle d'Itria circuit.