Kumartuli (Potters' Quarter)

Kumartuli is the traditional potters' quarter in North Kolkata, West Bengal, India, located near Rabindra Sarani and Banamali Sarkar Street close to the Hooghly River. For more than two centuries, families of artisans have worked here producing clay idols of gods and goddesses, above all the images of Durga for the autumn festival of Durga Puja, but also Saraswati, Kali, Lakshmi and Ganesha for other celebrations. The workshops line a maze of narrow lanes, and visitors can watch the full process in the open: bamboo and straw frames being bound, river clay being layered and smoothed, pieces being left to dry in the sun, and painters adding the faces, eyes and jewellery. The clay is traditionally sourced from the Hooghly, and the finished idols are often carried out through the lanes to be transported to pandals across the city and beyond. A visit takes about one to one and a half hours, and the best experience is to wander slowly, with respect for the artisans, and to ask politely before photographing a person at work. The most productive months are July to September, when many idols are half-formed and the lanes are crammed with straw skeletons, and October, when finished and painted Durga figures wait to be moved. Winter brings smaller Saraswati idols. The riverfront at Ahiritola ghat, a short walk away, offers a quieter place to see the Hooghly and the city's older waterfront buildings. The lanes are narrow and busy with carts and porters, and the monsoon can leave them muddy, so sturdy footwear is advisable. Mornings and afternoons during daylight are the best times because the work is done in natural light.