Chini Ka Rauza

Chini Ka Rauza is a Persian-style tomb on the east bank of the Yamuna in the Balkeshwar area of Agra, Uttar Pradesh, on the Agra-Delhi Road between Itimad-ud-Daulah and Ram Bagh. It is the tomb of Afzal Khan Allami, a Persian poet and scholar from Shiraz who served as a minister to Emperor Shah Jahan and died in 1639. The name means China tomb, a reference to the glazed tile, or chini, that once covered its walls. The building is a rectangular structure topped by a large Central Asian-style dome, with a tall central arch and four corner chhatris, and it stands on a raised platform in a ruined garden. Fragments of blue, green and yellow glazed tile and painted calligraphy survive on the facade and inside the domed chamber, which holds the cenotaphs of Allami and his family. The exterior shows how Persian architectural influence shaped Mughal design, and the main hall, though weathered, retains bands of Quranic inscriptions and arabesques. A visit is short, usually 30 to 45 minutes, and the site is rarely busy, so visitors can walk around the platform and peer into the chamber without crowds. Late afternoon light brings out the remaining colour on the tile, and photographers favour the view of the dome and arches against a clear sky. The tomb is not heavily restored, so the sense of decay is part of the appeal. Entry arrangements are not always clear, so it is worth confirming opening and ticketing at the gate. Facilities are minimal, and water should be carried. It is easy to include in a circuit with Itimad-ud-Daulah and Ram Bagh by hired auto-rickshaw.