Narikala Fortress (Narikala)

Narikala Fortress crowns the ridge above Abanotubani and the Sulfur Baths in Old Tbilisi, Georgia, and is the most recognisable silhouette in the capital. The earliest fortifications date to the 4th century, when the site was a Persian citadel, and the walls were extended by Umayyad emirs, later by Georgian kings and then by Mongol and Persian rulers. Much of the complex was wrecked by an explosion in 1827 after an earthquake, and what visitors walk through today is a mix of surviving curtain walls, two main towers and a restored church. The grounds are open around the clock and free to enter. Visitors usually arrive by the cable car from Rike Park, a ride of about two minutes, or on foot via the stepped lanes from Abanotubani or Betlemi Street, a climb of roughly 20 minutes. Inside the walls, the main sight is the church of St Nicholas, rebuilt in 1996 to 1997 and decorated with bright frescoes depicting biblical scenes and Georgian history. Visitors can walk along the broken battlements, climb onto several wall sections and look down over the sulfur-bath domes, the Metekhi Church, the Mtkvari River and the glass roofs of the Bridge of Peace. A path along the ridge continues west to the Mother of Georgia statue, making a natural combined walk. Plan on 1 to 1.5 hours, longer if combining with the botanical garden behind the fortress. The best vantage point is the west-facing wall near the church, which frames the old town at sunset, while the eastern ramparts give the clearest view of the river and modern Tbilisi. Crowds peak late morning and around sunset when tour groups and cable car queues build; early morning is quiet and the light is soft for photography. Paths are uneven stone, sections are steep and there are few railings in places, so sturdy shoes are advisable. Small kiosks near the cable car station sell drinks and snacks, but there is little shade on the walls in summer.