Abanotubani Sulfur Baths (Chreli Abano and Orbeliani Baths)

Abanotubani, the old bathhouse quarter of Tbilisi, sits at the foot of Narikala hill in the Old Town, where natural sulfur springs rise to the surface. According to local tradition, the springs influenced King Vakhtang Gorgasali's choice of the site for the capital in the fifth century, and the Georgian name Tbilisi is linked to the word for warm. Today the district is recognisable by the low, brick domes that rise from the ground like a row of beehives, with the blue-tiled facade of Chreli Abano and the Persian-style Orbeliani Baths among the best known. Visitors pay for either a shared public hall or a private room, which is rented by the hour and holds a pool of hot sulfur water, a steam room and a cooler plunge area. Rooms are typically available in groups of one to six or more people and are the usual choice for travellers. Many bathhouses also offer a kisa scrub, a vigorous exfoliating massage given by an attendant, for an extra fee. The water carries a distinct mineral smell that fades quickly, and the heat is intense, so most sessions last 60 to 90 minutes. Bathhouse interiors vary: some retain vaulted brick and mosaic ceilings, while others have been modernised with lounge areas and tea service. Outside, the narrow streets around the baths are best photographed from the Abano Street bridge over the small canal, with the domes in the foreground and the Jumah Mosque, Narikala Fortress and the botanical garden valley behind. A short walk leads up to the waterfall at the head of the valley. Crowds peak on weekend evenings, when private rooms must be booked ahead, while weekday afternoons are calmer and often cheaper. Visitors should bring a swimsuit or ask for sheets and towels, which are normally supplied, and should avoid heavy meals or alcohol beforehand. A typical visit, including the walk through the district, takes one to two hours and combines easily with the nearby Dry Bridge area, Metekhi Church and the cable car to Narikala.