Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer is a small harbour town on the French Riviera in the Alpes-Maritimes department, about 6 km east of Nice. It is the easiest day trip from the city: the TER Zou train from Nice-Ville takes roughly 10 minutes, and Lignes d'Azur buses 81 and 100 cost EUR 1.70 (~$2) for a slower, scenic ride along the coast. The town sits on one of the deepest natural harbours on the Mediterranean, a wide bay framed by the hills of Mont Boron and Cap Ferrat, and its pastel waterfront has long been a favourite of painters and writers. A morning arrival suits the light on the harbour and leaves the old town quiet. The station sits above the water, so visitors walk down to the quay or take the stairway into the old town. The first stop is usually the Rue Obscure, a vaulted medieval passage that once sheltered residents from sieges and bad weather. From there the narrow lanes lead to the Chapelle Saint-Pierre on the fishermen's quay, decorated in 1957 by Jean Cocteau with frescoes of the life of Saint Peter and local fishermen. A short walk along the harbour leads to the Citadelle Saint-Elme, a 16th-century fortress whose grounds hold small museums and a public garden. Lunch is best taken on the Quai de la Douane or on Place Amelie Pollonnais, where several restaurants serve Provencal and Niçoise dishes with a view of the moored boats. The afternoon suits a swim at the town beach, which has sand and calm water, or a stroll along the seafront promenade to Port de la Darse. The route to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat can be continued on foot or by bus for visitors with more time. Return trains to Nice run frequently until late evening. The best months are April to June and September to October, when the weather is warm and crowds are lighter than in July and August, when cruise ships anchor in the bay.