Eze Village

Eze Village is a medieval hilltop village in the Alpes-Maritimes, perched about 427 metres above the Mediterranean on the Moyenne Corniche, 12 km northeast of Nice. Lignes d'Azur line 82 runs from the Vauban hub in Nice and takes roughly 30-45 minutes for EUR 1.70 (~$2); the service is infrequent, so the timetable on lignesdazur.com should be checked before leaving. Drivers can reach the village in about 25 minutes via the D6007, though parking is limited and paid. The adventurous option is the Nietzsche Path, a steep trail of about an hour from Eze-sur-Mer station up to the village. The village itself is a tangle of stone lanes, archways and steps closed to cars, filled with small galleries, craft shops and a few perfumers. The top of the rock holds the Jardin Exotique d'Eze, a cactus and succulent garden built on the ruins of a medieval castle, with sweeping views of Cap Ferrat, the Bay of Villefranche and, on clear days, Corsica. The Fragonard perfumery runs free tours explaining the distillation process, and the village church and the narrow Rue du Brec are quick additions. Morning is best for a quieter visit and cooler walking, with the garden visited first and a slow descent through the lanes afterward. Lunch is available at the village restaurants and terraces, which range from casual crêperies to the well-known hotel dining rooms such as the Château de la Chèvre d'Or and the Château Eza, both of which also serve afternoon drinks with panoramic views. A relaxed day trip takes three to four hours, leaving time to continue by bus to Monaco or return to Nice. The best months are April to June and September to October, when temperatures suit the steep lanes. Summer midday is hot and busy with coach groups. Comfortable shoes are essential because the cobbles are uneven and the gradients are steep throughout.