Grasse

Grasse is a hillside town in the Alpes-Maritimes, about 40 km west of Nice, regarded as the perfume capital of the world and a UNESCO-listed centre of perfume-making know-how. The usual public transport route is the TER Zou from Nice-Ville to Cannes in about 30-35 minutes, then a second TER Zou to Grasse in about 25-30 minutes, for a total of about 1 hour 15 minutes; fares are on ter.sncf.com or the SNCF Connect app. Zou bus 500 takes about 1 hour 30 minutes, and driving takes around 50 minutes via the A8. Grasse station is about 1.5 km below the old town, so a bus or taxi is useful for the climb. The town's perfume heritage can be seen at three main places: the Musée International de la Parfumerie, which covers the history of perfume and raw materials; and the working perfumeries Fragonard, Molinard and Galimard, which offer free factory tours and sell scents, soaps and candles. Many also offer short workshops where visitors can blend their own perfume, which should be reserved in advance. The old town centres on the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy and the Place aux Aires, with shaded lanes, fountains and views down to the coast. A sensible itinerary starts with a perfumery tour in the morning, followed by lunch in the old town, where bistros serve Provençal dishes. The afternoon suits the perfume museum and a walk through the lanes. The best period is April to June, and May is notable for the rose harvest and the Exposition à la Rose festival, when the surrounding fields of Rosa centifolia are in bloom. Summer is hot, while winter is quiet and some attractions have reduced hours. A full day is advisable because of the two train legs and the climb from the station.