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Restaurants · Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Marseille

Chez Etienne

  • CuisineMarseille-style pizza and Italian-Provençal
  • CategoryPizzeria
  • VibeCramped, loud, cash-only pizzeria in Le Panier, since 1943
  • Price$

Chez Etienne is a cash-only pizzeria at 43 Rue de Lorette in Le Panier, the oldest quarter of Marseille, in the 2nd arrondissement, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of France. The restaurant has operated since 1943 and is regarded as one of the classic pizza addresses of the city, serving Marseille-style pizza alongside Italian-Provençal dishes.

The 2026 tourism listing gives EUR 16-40 (about $18-46) à la carte; Gault&Millau cites about EUR 23 (about $26) per person excluding drinks.

Chez Etienne is a cash-only pizzeria at 43 Rue de Lorette in Le Panier, the oldest quarter of Marseille, in the 2nd arrondissement, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of France. The restaurant has operated since 1943 and is regarded as one of the classic pizza addresses of the city, serving Marseille-style pizza alongside Italian-Provençal dishes. The most emblematic order is the moit-moit pizza, which is half anchovy and half cheese, and the menu also includes seafood spaghetti, fried supions (baby squid) and aubergine parmesan. The pizzas are cooked in a wood-fired oven and are known for thin crusts and generous toppings. Prices are low for a sit-down meal: the 2026 tourism listing gives EUR 16-40 (about $18-46) à la carte, and Gault&Millau cites about EUR 23 (about $26) per person excluding drinks. The room is small and cramped, with tightly packed tables, and the atmosphere is loud, lively and informal, with casual dress and a clientele of locals, families and visitors. Payment is by cash and cheques only, with no cards listed, so visitors should bring cash. Wines are simple, typically Provençal rosé and red by the glass or pitcher, matched to the pizza. According to the tourism listing, flagged as unconfirmed, the restaurant serves Monday to Saturday from 12:00 to 14:00 and from 20:00 to 23:00, and is closed on Sunday. Walk-ins are common, which means evenings can involve a long wait without a booking, while an early lunch avoids the queue. For groups, reservations can be arranged by phone on +33 6 16 39 78 73. The restaurant is a short walk from the Vieux-Port through the steep, narrow streets of Le Panier, which are lined with small galleries, craft shops and the Vieille Charité, so a meal can be combined with an afternoon exploring the quarter. Step-free access to the small room is not confirmed.

Practical information for Chez Etienne · Last updated September 2026
Price $
Hours Monday to Saturday 12:00-14:00 and 20:00-23:00 per the tourism listing (flagged unconfirmed); closed Sunday.
Reservations Walk-ins are common; phone +33 6 16 39 78 73 for groups. Cash and cheques only, no cards listed.
Address 43 Rue de Lorette, 13002 Marseille, France

Signature dishes

  • Moit-moit pizza (anchovy and cheese)
  • Seafood spaghetti
  • Fried supions (baby squid)
  • Aubergine parmesan

Good to know

Known for
Cash-only pizza classic of Le Panier

Location

43 Rue de Lorette, 13002 Marseille, France

43.3000, 5.3700 View on map

Highlights

  • Marseille pizza institution in Le Panier since 1943
  • Moit-moit pizza with anchovy and cheese
  • Seafood spaghetti and fried supions
  • Meals from about EUR 16

Tips for visiting

  • Bring cash; the restaurant takes cash and cheques only.
  • Arrive early at lunch to avoid the queue; evenings can mean a long wait.
  • Phone +33 6 16 39 78 73 to arrange group reservations.
  • Closed Sunday; confirm hours as the listing is flagged unconfirmed.
  • Order the moit-moit for the classic local pizza.

When to visit

Early lunch to avoid the queue; evenings have a long wait without a booking.

Accessibility

Small room with tightly packed tables; step-free access is not confirmed.

Frequently asked questions

Does Chez Etienne take cards?

No cards are listed. The restaurant takes cash and cheques only.

What is moit-moit pizza?

A pizza topped half with anchovy and half with cheese, the restaurant's best-known order.

How much does it cost?

The 2026 tourism listing gives EUR 16-40 (about $18-46) à la carte; Gault&Millau cites about EUR 23 (about $26) per person excluding drinks.

Can I book a table?

Walk-ins are common, but groups can phone +33 6 16 39 78 73.