Vallon des Auffes

The Vallon des Auffes is a tiny fishing harbour in the Endoume district of the 7th arrondissement of Marseille, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of France. It sits in a narrow cove beneath the arches of the Corniche road bridge, a few kilometres west of the Vieux-Port, and it has kept the character of a small fishing village within the city. Brightly painted wooden boats are moored in the sheltered inlet, and traditional cabanons, the small fishermen's huts, line the quay. A handful of restaurants on the waterfront have served bouillabaisse and seafood for decades, and the dish is the area's best-known culinary tradition. Visitors walk the short quay, watch the boats rocking in the water, and photograph the bridge arches and the colourful facades. A visit is brief, usually 45 to 60 minutes, though a meal extends it. A small waterfront bar-restaurant scene fills at lunch and in the evening, so reservations are advisable at the better-known restaurants. Visitors can also swim from the small rocky platforms near the harbour mouth in summer, and the nearby Corniche gives long sea views. The harbour is open at all times and entry is free, while restaurants keep their own hours. The simplest approach is bus 83 from the Vieux-Port to the Vallon des Auffes stop, or on foot along the Corniche from the Monument aux Morts de l'Armée d'Orient, a pleasant walk of around 30 minutes from the Pharo gardens direction. Late afternoon to sunset is the favoured time, when the water glows and the terraces fill. Weekends and summer evenings are the most crowded. Quayside space is limited, so the area is best explored on foot rather than by car.