Le Totem

Le Totem on Place de l'Hôtel de Ville in Étretat provides the most reliable casual dining option in a town otherwise dominated by restaurants that exploit its exceptional cliff-top tourism. Étretat is one of Normandy's most visited destinations, famous for the spectacular chalk arches of the Falaise d'Amont and Falaise d'Aval that the Impressionists, Monet in particular, painted repeatedly in the 19th century. After a morning walk on the cliff paths and a visit to Les Jardins d'Étretat, most visitors arrive in the town hungry and looking for a straightforward meal before driving on. Le Totem occupies this niche well: the kitchen produces honest Norman food with local sourcing, good attention to the basic preparations, and prices that remain reasonable despite the tourist setting. Moules-frites is the headline dish, cooked with Norman cider and cream and served in a generous cast-iron pot. Sole grillée, when available, is a good alternative; the kitchen also runs seasonal specials that reflect the Alabaster Coast's produce. The apple tart served warm with crème fraîche provides the natural Norman finish. The local cider list is well assembled, with farmhouse producers from the Seine-Maritime and Calvados departments represented. A reservation is necessary in summer as the town's limited restaurant options fill quickly.