Beiyuanmen Lamb Skewer Stalls

As the sun sets, Beiyuanmen fills with the smoke and smell of charcoal grills cooking yangrou chuan, skewered lamb dusted with cumin, chili flakes and salt, one of the most recognizable sights and smells of a Xi'an evening. Vendors fan the coals by hand to keep the flames active, and skewers are sold individually, making it easy to order a few at a time and keep walking rather than committing to a full meal at one stall. Cuts vary by vendor, from straightforward lamb to more adventurous options like grilled kidney, and the seasoning -- a generous dusting of ground cumin and chili -- is the common thread across nearly every stall. This is a standing, grazing experience rather than a sit-down meal; there's minimal seating, and the point is to move along the street sampling a few skewers here, a cup of pomegranate juice there. Because the grills are charcoal-fired and vendor turnover is high, freshness is generally good, though busier stalls with a visible line tend to be the safer bet. The scene is at its liveliest from early evening through around 10PM, when the street is at its most crowded.