Beiyuanmen Biang Biang Noodle Stalls

Biang biang noodles take their name -- and their onomatopoeic, notoriously complex character -- from the slapping sound the dough makes as a cook stretches and beats it against the counter or a hanging board before tearing it into wide, belt-like strands. Several small, independently run stalls along Beiyuanmen make the dish to order, so watching the noodle being pulled is part of the experience of eating here. The classic preparation, you po che mian, tops the boiled noodles with garlic, scallion, chili flakes and Sichuan pepper, then finishes with a ladle of hot oil poured directly over the top, which sizzles audibly and releases the aroma before the bowl is tossed together. Minced meat toppings and additional vegetables are common add-ons at most stalls, and portions are generous and filling. Seating, where it exists, is a handful of small stools and low tables rather than a proper dining room, and quality and price vary somewhat stall to stall, so it's worth glancing at a few before choosing one that's busy with local customers. There's no fixed opening time across the street; most stalls run from mid-morning through the evening rush.