Daquan Shaokao (大全烧烤)

Daquan Shaokao (Grand Barbecue) is at 86 Donglai Street in Harbin's Daowai District, Heilongjiang province. It is a budget skewer house serving grilled shaokao alongside Dongbei cold dishes, in a part of the city that is more local and less touristy than Central Street. Daowai is Harbin's historic Chinese quarter, and Donglai Street places the restaurant among everyday neighbourhood eateries.

Lamb skewers are the emblematic order, grilled over charcoal and seasoned with cumin and chilli in the northern style. Grilled vegetables offer a lighter side, and da la pi, the big-bowl cold noodle salad that is a signature of the Northeast, is the classic accompaniment. Da la pi is made from mung-bean starch sheets tossed with vegetables, sesame and a sharp sauce, and its cool freshness contrasts with the smoky meat. The bowls are large enough to share.

The atmosphere is casual, busy and noisy, in the manner of a neighbourhood barbecue restaurant. Tables are simple, service is fast, and diners are mostly local groups eating in the evening. There is no dress code. Beer is the usual drink. The restaurant suits groups and social meals more than quiet dining.

No reservation is taken, and diners walk in. Prices are low, and the bill depends mainly on how many skewers are ordered. The restaurant is open in the evenings to late night, and visitors should confirm hours on Dianping. Evenings, weekends and warm months are busiest. Visitors combining the meal with a visit to the Chinese Baroque streets of Daowai may find it convenient to eat here after sightseeing, when the neighbourhood is at its liveliest.