Liuji Changwang Noodles

Liuji Changwang Noodles at No. 4 Baoshan South Road in Yunyan District, Guiyang, is a noodle restaurant devoted to changwang mian, the Guiyang breakfast dish that has become an emblem of the city's food culture. Changwang noodles consist of wheat noodles served in a broth cooked with pork intestine and pork blood, then topped with crispy fried pork cubes, chili oil and scallion. The name is a homophone for prosperity in the local dialect, which is why many residents eat it first thing in the morning as a lucky start to the day. The two items on the menu that define the restaurant are the changwang noodles themselves and the crispy pork topping, which can be added as extra to a bowl. The broth is rich and peppery, with the offal cleaned and braised until tender, and the fried pork gives a crunch that contrasts with the soft noodles. A spoonful of chili oil and a splash of vinegar from the table bring the bowl into balance, and customers often add pickled radish or sprouts. The restaurant uses a counter-service format, where diners order and pay at the front, take a seat at simple tables and are served within minutes. There is no reservation system, no dress code and no wine programme, and the atmosphere is lively, with steam, quick service and a steady flow of regulars. Tea and soft drinks are usually the only beverages. The price is low, placing the restaurant in the budget bracket, and a bowl costs only a few yuan more than other breakfast noodles. Visitors who are unfamiliar with offal may find the first bowl bracing, but the dish is widely regarded as a must-try in Guiyang and is a good way to experience the city's morning routine. The Baoshan South Road location is in a central neighbourhood and is easy to combine with other sights in Yunyan District.