Kabul is the capital of Afghanistan, a mountain-ringed city of roughly 4.6 million at 1,790 m. This guide records its historic sites, markets and food while stating plainly that every government advises against travel there.
Kabul's cooking is built on rice, lamb, flatbread and yogurt: Kabuli pulao topped with carrots and raisins, mantu dumplings, aushak leek dumplings, kebabs cooked over charcoal and bolani stuffed flatbreads, served with green tea and fresh naan.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Kabul.
Kabuli Pulao
Rice cooked in lamb stock topped with carrots, raisins and pistachios.
Where to try: Mandawi Kebab and Pulao Houses
Price: 250-450 AFN ($3.50-6.50)
Mantu
Steamed beef or lamb dumplings with yogurt and lentil sauce.
Where to try: Kabul City Center Food Court
Price: 200-350 AFN ($3-5)
Aushak
Leek-filled dumplings with meat sauce and dried mint.
Where to try: Kabul Lodge Restaurant
Price: 200-350 AFN ($3-5)
Chapli Kebab
Flat spiced minced beef patty grilled on a griddle.
Where to try: Hotel Mustafa Restaurant
Price: 150-300 AFN ($2-4)
Bolani
Thin flatbread stuffed with potato, pumpkin or leeks and pan-fried.
Where to try: Wazir Akbar Khan Bakeries and Cafes
Price: 40-80 AFN ($0.60-1.15)
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Afghan And Fast Food
Afghan And International
Afghan Bakery And Cafe
Afghan Street Food
Afghan Tea And Snacks
Fast Food And Afghan
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Kebab skewers and naan
Charcoal-grilled chicken or lamb in fresh naan from street stalls.
Find it at: Chicken Street and Mandawi Bazaar
Jalebi and sweets
Syrup-soaked fried sweets sold hot by weight.
Find it at: Old City bakeries
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Mandawi Bazaar
Dried fruit, nuts, spices and fresh bread.
Hours: Daily 7:00 AM-5:00 PM
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Eat with the right hand; bread is used to scoop.
Lunch is usually 12:00-2:00 PM and dinner 7:00-9:00 PM.
Avoid raw salads and unpeeled fruit washed in tap water.
Restaurants in hotels are the most hygienic and secure options.
Alcohol is banned; expect tea, doogh (yogurt drink) and soft drinks.
- Vegetarian
- Possible: bolani, aushak (meatless version), borani banjan and rice with beans, but meat is the default.
- Halal
- All food is halal.
- Gluten free
- Limited; rice dishes are the safest, bread is everywhere.
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | 150-300 AFN ($2-4) per meal | Kebab and naan or bolani at street stalls. |
| Mid-range | 400-900 AFN ($6-13) per meal | Sit-down pulao and kebab plates at hotel and city restaurants. |
| Upscale | 1,200-2,500 AFN ($17-36) per meal | Buffets and set menus at the Serena and InterContinental. |