Spozhmai Restaurant, Qargha Lake

The Spozhmai Restaurant stands on the shore of Qargha Lake, a reservoir west of central Kabul, Afghanistan, that is one of the most popular weekend escapes for the city's residents. The restaurant occupies a terrace over the water and is built for long, unhurried meals, with views across the lake to the surrounding hills. The cuisine is Afghan, centred on grilled lamb and fish, and it draws families, groups of friends and visitors who want to leave the city for an afternoon.

Grilled trout is the dish most associated with the venue, served whole and seasoned simply, usually with lemon, bread and salad. Lamb kebab is cooked over charcoal and served in skewers with naan and onions, and Kabuli pulao, with carrots, raisins and lamb, is the standard rice dish for sharing. Fresh bread, salad and pots of green or black tea accompany meals, and many diners linger over tea after eating.

The atmosphere is relaxed and family-oriented, with a breezy terrace, moderate noise levels and a pleasant, informal air that is busiest on Fridays and weekends. Dress is casual and modest. No alcohol is served, and beverages are tea, juices and soft drinks. Seats nearest the water are the most sought after.

Prices are in the $$ band. The restaurant is open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM. Reservations are not usually required on weekdays, but groups should reserve ahead for Fridays and holidays. The lake lies some distance from the city centre, so transport should be arranged in advance, and visitors should check current security advice and travel in daylight.